2009/11/01

Harpers Ferry / 渡口




去年冬天到Charles
Town
看賽馬,經過Shanendoah
River時,遠遠看到一個小鎮好漂亮,當時還想說回家要在地圖上找找看是哪裡;結果壓根兒就忘了。


今年在找離家不遠的景點賞秋時,朋友提到了「Harpers Ferry」,說喜歡攝影的人一定會很喜歡,而且從我們家開車過去不用一個小時。從地圖上一看,不就是去年經過的小鎮?真是「得來全不費工夫」啊。


Harpers Ferry 的地點剛好在Maryland,VirginiaWest Virginia三州的交界,有PotomacShanendoah River兩條河在這裡交會。歷史上,它是「南北戰爭」的引爆點:1859年,極力主張美國廢奴運動的約翰布朗(John Brown)在這裡襲擊聯邦武器庫,加速了美國內戰在1861年爆發;所以在這裡會看到很多老人家望著傾頹的古牆和老屋喟嘆。


沿著Shanendoh
River的鐵道至今仍然運作,夕陽穿過鐵軌下的木柵,看右邊的石房,或是左邊的仙人道河,和影子被拉的長長的蓬車,加上不時有從博物館走出來的「工作人員」,身穿內戰時期的服裝跟我們擦肩而過,感覺真像走在西部電影場景裡。


隔著鐵道,遠遠看到小丘上的St.
Peter's Church,聽說以前不只這一座教堂,卻是唯一沒有被戰火摧毀的,門口有一位身著南軍制服的老伯伯,很親切的回答你的問題,還會攬著你的手臂,提醒你腳下曲拐的石階。


踏著石階往上走,就在St.
Peter後方不遠處,會看到只剩下幾面石牆的St. John’s Church。讓人想到「簡愛」裡被燒毀後的Rochester舊宅;曾經是窗口,現在都成了缺口。


石階的盡頭,是欣賞Shanendoah River 和群山環繞St. Peter教堂的廣角點。因為這裡也曾是傑佛遜非常喜歡的景點,還有一塊石頭命名為「Jefferson
Rock」。為了不讓天候或是時間讓這塊石頭命喪河底,後人還為它加上一塊大石鞏固它的地位。所以現在看到的不只是「Jefferson Rock」,還有它下面那塊「Jefferson’s Bodyguard」(這是我自己亂取的)。


回到Harpers Ferrylower town順著鐵道往東邊走,會遇見Appalachian Trail。標示牌上畫著:往北達緬因,往南到喬治亞,就兩個州名,讓人看見了一個「大」,一千四百英里左右耶。忽然想到阿甘那樣想跑就跑,想停就停的傻勁。


繼續往東,有一條footbridge帶著行人走向C & O 運河,光走這一段橋就花了我半個多小時,不是因為太長,是因為太漂亮了。橋下是Potomac River,會看到之前被洪水推倒的舊橋墩,牆頭上有花有草有小樹。從橋的這端遠眺另一端,會看到隧道和一道弧度。在橋樑上看到好多蜘蛛網,想灑點水上去製造露珠的特效,哪知這蛛網還防水的耶,一滴都不留。


到了橋尾,要下一個迴旋梯,還是鏤空的階梯,在我們前面幾位老人家頭都快昏了,扶著手把喘大氣,我剛好有理由走走停停邊照相。還發現這個迴旋梯和行人的影子印照在運河邊的石牆上時,好像山頂洞人的壁畫,也像「英倫情人」片頭裡畫出來的墨跡。


因為下雨延遲到下午才出發的我們,計畫明年秋天再找一個完整的日子來看它。





Harpers Ferry  


 


1.Information Center Start your visit here with an orientation to park stories and
information.


2.Restoration Museum Explore "layers" of history and discover how a building
changes over time.


3.Frankel's Clothing Store This exhibit reveals
a revolution in the clothing industry tied to machines and advanced by
war.


4.Industry Museum Transportation improvements and industrial innovations gave rise to Harpers Ferry. Original machines feature weapons
production technology.


5.National Park Bookshop Stop here for a fine
selection of books, videos and gifts of local and national interest.


6.Blacksmith Shop Experience some of the
sights, sounds and stories of a 19th century working-class town. (Open
seasonally
).


7.Hamilton Street Building foundations and photos mark the sites of a pre-Civil War riverside
neighborhood.


8.Harpers Ferry: A Place
In Time
Explore the growth of the town from past to
present. (Video program).


9.Provost Marshal Office Learn about the
Provost Marshal who served as judge, jailer and, if need be, executioner.


10.Mrs. Stipes Boarding House
Visit the widow Cornelia Stipes' boarding house during the Civil War.
Rooms occupied by war correspondent James Taylor and a military officer
are located on the second floor.


11.Dry Goods Store Clothes, hardware,
liquor, groceries and other merchandise that arrived daily by railroad and
canal in the 19th century are on display.


12.Arsenal Square Arms produced at the
Harpers Ferry Armory were stored in two brick buildings here - the Small
Arsenal and Large Arsenal.


13.John Brown's Fort Originally the Armory's
fire enginehouse and watchman's office, John Brown barricaded himself here
during the final moments of his raid. 


14.The Point View the gap in the Blue
Ridge Mountains as you stand at the confluence of the Potomac
and Shenandoah rivers. 


15.John Brown Museum
Explore the story of John Brown and the struggle over slavery. (Video
program
).


16.Allies For Freedom Learn about the five
African-American raiders who joined John Brown. (Located on the second
floor of the John Brown Museum
).


17.Harpers Ferry Wetlands Discover the history
and nature of this special resource along the bottomland of the Shenandoah River.


18.Education & The Struggle For Equality
Find out about one of the first schools in the New South for former
slaves, and learn about the struggle for equality in the 20th century.


19.Alfred Burton Jewlery Store
This frame building, reconstructed from original historic fabric, displays
the wares and tools of this local businessman.


20.Confectionery Learn a tragic story of a
family touched by war.


21.Civil War Museum Discover the twists and turns of four years of civil war in Harpers Ferry.


22.Black Voices Listen to human stories
of struggle and triumph.


23.Harper House This is the oldest
surviving building in Harpers Ferry. The
lower level, halfway up the Stone Steps, exhibits an armory worker's
apartment.


24.Jefferson Rock Here in 1783, Thomas
Jefferson described this view as "worth a voyage across the Atlantic."




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3 則留言:

  1. 牧羊神你好
    寫的好詳細的介紹 這個地方幾乎每年的秋天我都會來 但是直到今年 才真正看到了她的全貌 在波多馬克河的對岸 有一條小徑 可以徒步登上馬里蘭高地 從對岸的岩壁上 遠遠的俯灠整個小鎮. 全程來回大約要將近四個小時. 附上一張今年的秋天...
    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2799/4044280639_471185a548_b.jpg
    Hope you like it...
    版主回覆:(10/30/2009 04:45:41 PM)
    妳的照片很讚, 登高賞景真的有差
    而且那個顏色比Shanendoah漂亮好幾倍!
    當天出發時有看到這塊高地
    一來是時間不夠
    二來還有點擔心(我畢竟年紀不小了哩)
    坡度難度高嗎?
    我還記得這中間是不可能有廁所的
    四小時不上廁所好像也有點難, 除非不喝水.....

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  2. 謝謝你的讚美...
    當天一行人大約十多來人左右 而我是裡面年齡層最低的 也是過了不惑之年... 其他同行的夥伴們也幾乎大多在五十五至六十八歲左右. 至於廁所的問題... 我倒是覺得正好相反. 沿路上的運動量其實是會流汗的. 慢慢地補充水分就會平衡了. 還有早上出發前最好不要喝咖啡. 有些路段的坡度有些些阧 但還不至於到令人卻步的程度.
    再附上兩張沿途的照片
    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/4067456980_0606160c66_b.jpg
    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2491/4044402767_8c46a1ba3e_o.jpg
    hope you like it..
    版主回覆:(11/24/2009 12:34:57 PM)
    六十多歲都可以完成的健行
    我還真沒有理由說不行哩^_^
    來年秋天我一定會往高處走
    看來, 妳應該也是背著單眼走全程
    我本來還想問的
    看來我是不用太擔心啦
    妳的單眼是Nikon嗎?
    色澤的感覺像是Nikon的
    其實這樣猜測也蠻武斷的說
    Anyway, 我很喜歡妳的照片
    是那種看了就有身歷其境的氣氛
    謝謝妳的分享

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  3. 你的眼力真好~
    全景那張是Canon照的 沿途的兩張是Nikon.
    看了你的格子跟文章 感覺我們好像是鄰居..
    華府這個地方真是臥虎藏龍啊....
    版主回覆:(11/25/2009 01:20:16 AM)
    呵呵, 因為我自己用的是Nikon,所以比較熟悉啦
    蒙郡有好多華人
    不過我每次上網看別人的部落格
    尤其是西岸灣區或洛城一帶的華人寫吃都會流口水
    那個時候就覺得
    我們這裡的餐飲水準還真是差太遠了!
    歡迎常來串門子!

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